Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Within the Walls of Medieval St Malo. La Ville Intra Muros.

I had heard stories of how beautiful it was in the ancient city within the walls of old St Malo. This section of St Malo is called the Intra Muros.
On January 7th, 2014, I asked my host at the Manoir, Benoit, how to get to the Intra Muros. He told me which bus to get and where to wait, as well as what stop for me to get off at.  Each bus stop in St Malo has a name on it, which makes life very easy for travellers. This was my first time on a bus in France and easier than I had imagined.  Cheap too.
When I got to my stop I had to walk the last little way to Intra Muros, over a bridge alongside the shoreline.  It was great to actually approach the city from a distance.  Also I got a good view of the harbour.  This port was famous for pirates and corsairs in the past.

As I approached, the full splendour and enormity of the walls surrounding the city could be appreciated. They were massive.


I was dwarfed by the walls when I got right up to them.  This was my first encounter with ancient structues, whose building techniques defied my imagination.  This feeling of awe at how people built what they did, so many years ago, becomes a common thread to my journey around the sites of France.

After walking alongside the wall I entered the city by one of its two gates. 
The cobblestones were everywhere.  I was walking with my luggage because I was catching the train to Dol de Bretagne later that day. I made quite a racket as I trundled along and I hoped my wheels could stand the work out.
Inside the walls there was plenty of evidence of ancient buildings.  However,  much of the town was in fact rebuilt in the the old style, after it was devastated by the Allies in WW2,
I loved the narrow streets and alleys.
 
This little cross-over caught my attention. 
This is one of the original buildings that survived the bombing.
The roof-tops were wonderful and I loved all the balconies.
I had brought a baguette and jam with me for my lunch.  I sat on a bench overlooking this green as I ate my picnic.  It was sunny but cold. I was so lucky with the weather.
Sitting quietly while I was eating was exactly what I wanted to do.  To stop, and be still.  This gave me time to really breathe in the atmosphere and to be in the space.  I was able to observe the people who lived there, watch the birds in the trees and feel the wind on my face.  So often as we visit these kinds of places we keep moving quickly from one amazing sight to another. Then before we know it we are gone, and cannot recall the sensations of being there. 
I loved the curves on the windows of this building I spied down a narrow passage.
This little shop caught my attention as it had lots of old equipment used in the making of butter.  I usually make butter every year with my kids at school, but we have nothing this sophisticated.  We put the cream in a jar and shake it, lol.

Down this street was where the explorer Jacques Cartier lived.  He played a big part in the history of Canada, so it was interesting to learn he was from St Malo.
Here is another narrow alley,  I just love these features and wish we had some in Canada.  No cars fit in this picture and pedestrians rule.
While walking the streets I came upon the famous cathedral.  I have discovered my travelling style, which is to enjoy myself walking naturally around the place, and eventually I'll find the places everyone tells me I should see.  
It was so nice to see the spire come into view as I was walking.
The cathedral is right up against the other buildings, so its quite hard to get a shot of the whole building.
The gargoyles were huge.
As it happened I left Intra Muros via the second gate.  
I was surprised when I got outside the walls, because there were even more fortifications to be seen.


This is a very fancy hotel now.
I turned around to take one last look at the gates and the La Ville Intra Muros. 
I was so grateful to have been able to experience this place.  It was my first taste of many amazing ancient sites I would  be  priviledged to see while in France.
As it happened, coming out this set of gates was serendipidous. Unkown to me,  this was where the buses were that would take me into the new section of the city, and the Gare.
What happened was that I ran up to a bus standing nearby and asked the driver how to get to the Gare.  She smiled at me and said that she was going there right then. :-)  I just love moments like that.
 As we drove into town I got to see a different route along the harbour.  I also got to see the third of the tall ships on this trip. :-) One in Bristol, one in Portsmouth and now this one in St. Malo.
I got to the station in good time to catch my train to Dol de Bretagne.  My host form my next Bed and Breakfast was going to meet me there.
I was off to see Mont St Michelle, but that my friends in another story. :-)

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